Today we went with the crew of us, Julian’s three daughters, wife Gia, and my parents and sister, to Marissa beach, where there is a corner pocket of good waves and lots of funky restaurants where the tables are placed out on the waves next to the surf. I went out for a little afternoon session of surfing, battling the reef and rocks to get out where it was deep enough to catch something, and then the waves disappeared. I met a couple of nice travelers from Finland and Chec Republic who were moving to a beach further up the coast because the waves were better there, and they invited me to come along. We were also surfing with a nice local guy, and his friend drove us in his tuk tuk and waited for us while we surfed.
HUGE waves. WAY too big for me. The kind that hold you under the bubbling water for five or more seconds when you fall. A couple of big bails and I spent the rest of the time paddling around and skirting the edges where the wave was calmer. I think I will go to see Casoon for a lesson before I leave.
I tuk tuked back with the guy who was waiting for us. Super nice guy, and very interested in learning about Canada. He thought I was quite funny, which many of the locals do I suppose because I speak with such expression and flamboyant hand gestures. Whatever. It helps me communicate when there is a language barrier, although most of the locals seem to have at least basic English here. The guy said that they take English class in school.
The highway along the shoreline is lined with small graveyards. When the tsunami hit Sri Lanka seven years ago, 50,000 people died, among them the tuk tuk driver’s sister. He said that his family will honour her memory by giving food to ten monks every year on the anniversary of her death, as well as making a trip to a Buddhist temple. Every single person who I have asked about the tsunami has had either a direct family member or a close relative who was killed by the tsunami. Beaches are littered with broken bits of pottery and pieces of red brick, edges warn smooth from the waves. I can only assume all the debris is left over from when the tsunami hit, as brick and cement is the building material of choice here; it is easy to procure and stands up against the relentless humidity.
December 27: (today)
Another morning of surfing. Sanath (pronounced “Sanat”) drove me out to a spot recommended by a couple of the local guys who work here, and I borrowed a surf board from a friend of theirs and left my things with their family while I went out. Again with the huge waves and held breath, but still it was nice to be out on the open ocean and sunshine.
Once I had had enough battering for the day I went back to their house and he and his family (he lives with his mother and sister—families tend to live together here for a long time, and even when they are married they move close to where they were born) fed me some king coconuts that they knocked from the tree in their backyard with a hook taped to the end of a long stick. They found me quite entertaining as I slurped back the fresh flesh and drank up the coconut water. I liked it so much that I had a second, and they sent me home with three more for later. Such lovely people.
In the afternoon I went into the fort of Galle to do a little souvenir shopping. I’m not much of a shopper, so it didn’t last long. I’m amazed by the architecture in the area, and it is always nice to be out in places where there are locals. Part of the beauty of this country is that it is still off the radar of the hoards of tourists that travel to other parts of the world, and I predict that it won’t be this way for long. It is absolutely wonderful. Great food, friendly locals, good surf and wonderful beaches, amazing countryside and wildlife. Cheap. I might just have to look into teaching over here. There are some American teachers working in Dubai who are spending a couple of nights here, so I will have to inquire about the possibility of working abroad.
As I write this the sky turns a lush pink and purple and chanting from the nearby temple spreads out across the patty fields below. Palm fronds clack in the soft wind, and bird song calls out in fits from every angle. Above my head dozens of sparrows duck and dive across the opening in the trees made by the pool. What an amazing moment in life this is, so I am going to sign off to sit in quiet enjoyment. Happy Holidays all, wherever in the world you may be.
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